The heat riser will normally stay in heat on position, counter weight straight up and down, until very well warmed up and then and only then will it move forward if it has a good spring. In other words, like pulling a plow it will lay down. Yard work, probably stay in up right position all day long. Who knows what condition that valve inside is. May be half burned off so it is not directing heat to the stove. That is why I always take those manifolds apart when I have the head off. Flat raters won't mess with all that extra grief and work. It may have never been apart in it's life. Like I said, if you had it on a dyno and it actually worked well under load, then you could say with some certaincy carb is ok and cold puttering around work would be manifold problem. Remember, an engine never really warms up without a load. I could go on all day about those sputtering 460's. We had a customer, fairly new tractor, maybe 7 or 8 years old. He even put on a new intake manifold to over come the coughing. Then him and another customer traded tractors. Other one was diesel. They both wanted to keep their own power train so they had me do a mid section, cross switch. So, fuel tanks etc stayed with original tractor. When the guy who had the diesel came in and picked up the gas to take it home, we were on lunch break. He starts it and proceeds to take off, cough, cough, kills it, we just laughed. Welcome to a 460 gas.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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