Low ash oil, correct octane gasoline, correct ign timing and do not over look the valve seats. Most of them get loose in the head. A valve transfers most of it's heat to the head through the valve seat. If that seat does not not transfer heat as well as it should, the valve stem carries more heat. This in turn can cause that valve to stick for an instant and torch out. I put in a lot of over size valve seats in the 263 engine, even before IH introduced LOW ASH oil to get me out of the woods on valve burning. This was when we had so called good gasoline also, like 1964, 65. We had the same problems with that very similar engine used in trucks. They used to cup the valves so there was no clearance, reset them and in a couple trips, same old thing. Then IH came with a plate to block off the heat riser in manifold. That helped but was not really a cure. In a truck, drivers just held the pedal to the metal and they melted down. Had the same problem with my inlaws old chev powerglide. Local shop had installed valve seats and they were not tight. It would burn the valve in a couple thousand miles. I was young and learning and didn't recognize the seat problem for a couple of valve job. Cured it though.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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