Maybe this is no help. but it might be. This is how I adjust my "H" carb; Make sure the float isn’t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so it doesn’t rub or touch. Pretty important. Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber. Initial settings are as follows to get it started; Main fuel adjusting screw, big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture. Idle fuel-mixture screw, smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner. Idle speed screw, faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages the slot. Final settings are determined as follows; Get the engine warmed up, and idling. Turn OUT the idle fuel-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until it idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.) Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine sits at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.) Should rev up smoothly and evenly. Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs. Correct = tan plugs. Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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