You should have an engine stand. Then you can turn the engine upside down, although you could do it on a bench. Remove the front pulley. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil pump. Remove the timing cover, Remove the rear main seal carrier. Check the top of the cylinder liners for a ridge, cut it out if necessary. Remove the piston connecting rods one at a time, notice the numbers that are on the cam side. Keep the piston rods and caps in the same position and bolt them together hand tight. Remove the main bearing caps, taking care to keep them in order and same position. Now, the crankshaft should now lift out. Measure the crankshaft journals at two locations each, 90 degrees apart. If they are in spec, get some Plasti-gauge and measure the bearing clearance between the crank and the old bearings. Any questions? Regards, Charlie
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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