Posted by Owen Aaland on June 05, 2013 at 14:16:24 from (216.47.33.251):
In Reply to: 300 not charging posted by VA Gasman on June 04, 2013 at 18:27:29:
I would say that everything is wired correctly. It worked before so it shouldn't need a change in wiring to make it work now.
The wire on the battery terminal should go to the back of the ammeter.
The wire on the #1 terminal goes through a resistor and then should be connected to the switched side of the ignition switch or the switch side of the ignition resistor (or coil if it has a 12 volt coil).
The wire on the #2 terminal is most likely attached either to the ammeter or better yet at the starter switch where the battery cable is attached. Wiring it that way gives better control to charging voltage than having it connected to the battery terminal at the alternator. It controls the voltage at the battery after the electrical load instead of at the alternator before the load. For the most part the electrical load on these old tractor conversions is so small that the choice of how it is wired make no practical difference.
Testing involves checking for battery voltage at the alternator at both the battery terminal and the #2 terminal. The voltage must be there whether the ignition is on or off. The #1 terminal should have about 6 volts with the ignition switch on while the wire is connected to the alternator. With the wire removed from the alternator the voltage should equal battery voltage with the switch on. The voltage at the #1 terminal is not critical. The more voltage present when the alternator starts the lower the speed needs to be before it will begin to charge. With the resistor in place you will not get battery voltage at that terminal.
If you do have battery voltage at that terminal with the switch on, engine off, you have an open circuit in the brushes or rotor. To test the regulator find the D shaped hole in the back of the alternator and ground the little tab inside that hole to the case with the engine running. Grounding that tab bypasses the regulator and puts the alternator into full output mode.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
