Not exactly what you asked, but it works well, and does not require precision in engine placement. Hot if you want to means run it for 10 to 15 minutes then take the valve cover off and adjust. It does not need to be working hot, just into good and warm. Valve Adjust Jim's way --- It is simple and fool proof. The process works for all engines with adjustable regular valves and any number of cylinders. Identifying the valve order is all that is necessary (given in this process for the IH 4 cyl gas). I do it this way others do a different system. It must be set cold first, so setting it twice (or once) is normal Get the specification. Set the intake valve on cylinder #1 (Front) when its exhaust valve just starts to open. Set the exhaust when the intake just closes. These are the two positions that can be seen at the springs and retainers for each cylinder to be as far away from a lobe on the cam as possible while still knowing where it is. The order is (front to back EI-IE-EI-IE) Look at #1 valves, Turn the engine till the Exhaust just starts to begin opening (moves) then adjust the Intake valve. Rotate more until the intake just stops moving after having been open) and adjust the exhaust. Treat every cylinder (pair of valves shown above) the same way, remembering they switch places between cylinders) I put a rag over the ones I have done to keep track of progress, and avoid mixing what I am looking at. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family’s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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