The hot post on the starter will have continuity to ground through the starter. The internal resistance of the starter is very low so it would appear to be almost a dead short. That is why the current draw is so high when voltage is applied to the starter cable. This continuity should exist all the way to the starter side if the starter switch. The other side of the starter switch back to the battery should not have continuity to ground unless there is another switch left on. If either the ignition switch or the light switch were on they would provide a path to ground.
Instead of checking continuity to ground it will be much easier to find your problem bu checking voltage drop under load across each part of the system. There should be no drop along a cable. A connection should have no more than .1 volt. A switch should have no more than .2 volts drop.
With all that you have done I would take a close look at the starter switch. Check the voltage drop across the two terminals while trying to crank the engine.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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