All you need is a piece of steel 1/2 inch thick, 6 inches tall, and wide enough to get from one side to the other. I can't remember how far apart the holes are drilled. When I built one for my SM I used two pieces of 1/4 inch plate welded together. Then ran some 2X2 heavy square tubing back and bolted it to the frame rails. Didn't look the greatest, but I built it in metal shop in 9th grade.
You won't need power steering. It may be harder to turn once you unhook the cultivator, but then you just go pull the weights off.
Oh, and the farther in front of the tractor you put the weights, the more effective they will be. To get around the rod for the hand crank, all you need to do is slide the front plate forward til it clears.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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