Not that I am an expert by any stretch, but I have learned a couple of lessons from using my sickle bar mower. To start with, what the others say is great advice. Additionally I found it a good idea to keep the angle of attack of the rock guards/bar level with the ground or slightly tipped up. Tipped down causes trouble and drags and digs the dirt instead of riding over it. Also, have the outer part of the bar lead (further ahead) than the inside of the bar (by the tractor tire) by 2". That'll help avoid plugging up at the outer end of the bar and also reduce strain on frame of the mower. Another thing comes to mind is the eveness of the ground. If the ground under the grass is rough and bumpy, the rock guards can dig into the high spots and block a knife or two with a clump of dirt which turns into a plugging of grass. Regardless take your time, don't force anything and make adjustments as necessary. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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