I would follow this diagram I made. The original VR is not needed. The coil polarity is important. The bulbs must be changed, and the battery must be negative ground. Reversing the amp meter is also to be sure it reads correctly. Use new wires as shown and keep the diagram printed out in the manual. You do not state which tractor, so the ignition switch is shown as the Farmall H type. The starter is shown as one on a later tractor the intent is to connect that fuse link to the battery wire at the Start switch what ever typr it has. The small wire shown going to the starter and connecting to the ballast resistor is for resistor bypass if the starter relay/solenoid has that "I" terminal. A second diode can be used in series with that wire to allow full starting voltage bypass if you have a mechanical switch to the starter. If so the diode is placed so starter motor current from the switch can go the the ballast resistor but not vrom the resistor to the starter. Or the wire can be left out all together. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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