OK, Bob and Rusted both say to leave it 6 volt cause that's the way it was designed. So does that mean on an H or an M you should never, ever add live hydraulics, power steering or a3 point cause they were not designed that way? The guy ask a question about how his tractor was running now that the conversion is done.
12 volt to me is the way to go. I have 3 tractors that have been converted to 12 volt and I'm very happy with those conversions. All will start in MN winters at -15 or colder. 1st step in a conversion is to make sure the tractor runs as it should in 6 volt. That doesn't mean the charging system has to work but the battery has to be fully charged. If it isn't running right fix that problem first. You do not want the 12 conversion to be a Band-Aid. Sounds like you got a bad coil. It happens. As you were told check for shaft play on the distributor. Check point gap too. If the points are not clean and brite put in new points. Get good ones. The ones sold by TSC and other farm supply places may be of low quality. Same with the coil. Standard, Blue Streak and NAPA all see decent points and coils.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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