OK, Bob and Rusted both say to leave it 6 volt cause that's the way it was designed. So does that mean on an H or an M you should never, ever add live hydraulics, power steering or a3 point cause they were not designed that way? The guy ask a question about how his tractor was running now that the conversion is done.
12 volt to me is the way to go. I have 3 tractors that have been converted to 12 volt and I'm very happy with those conversions. All will start in MN winters at -15 or colder. 1st step in a conversion is to make sure the tractor runs as it should in 6 volt. That doesn't mean the charging system has to work but the battery has to be fully charged. If it isn't running right fix that problem first. You do not want the 12 conversion to be a Band-Aid. Sounds like you got a bad coil. It happens. As you were told check for shaft play on the distributor. Check point gap too. If the points are not clean and brite put in new points. Get good ones. The ones sold by TSC and other farm supply places may be of low quality. Same with the coil. Standard, Blue Streak and NAPA all see decent points and coils.
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Today's Featured Article - Maintaining Rubber Tires - by Staff. The broad use of rubber tires on farm tractors and machinery has resulted in a great saving in both time and operating costs since the time of steel wheels. There are, however, certain basic fundamentals in the care of tires that should be followed carefully if the owner is to derive maximum benefit from his or her investment. First and most important is to maintain proper pressure for the work at hand. Your best guide to proper inflation is the operator's manual or instruction book tha
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