Doesn't matter what tractor it is, the basics for when they won't run are exactly the same for any gasoline-powered tractor.
From his description of the tab, it sounds like an H or an M.
If you put the new carb on BEFORE you cleaned the tank, the carb is sucked full of silt. Probably blocking the jets.
Do a basic spark check first and make sure you're getting bright blue spark on all four cylinders, but I doubt it's a spark issue.
FYI buying a new carb is a colossal waste of money. Unless the old one is missing or smashed to pieces, it can be rebuilt. You may have to take it apart 2-3 times to get it right the first few times, but it's not that complicated or hard to do.
Now, you are probably going to have to take the new carb apart and rebuild it anyway, or drop another $300-$500 on another new carb. You could've put a $50 rebuild kit in the old carb.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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