Start up and get the engine to operating temp, cover radiator if needed and check for any problems during the period. Try for the shortest time. Operate at 3/4 throttle in 4th gear no load for 15 minutes. 45 minutes at 3/4 throttle on light work. Run it 2 hours full throttle on medium to heavy work. Check for leaks and check valve adjustment. May as well check the head bolt torque when doing the valves. With a victor type head gasket it may not change in 3 or 4 hours, but better safe than sorry. Put it to work and change the oil after 25 or so hours and the valves and head torque again. Tighten only the head nuts that are below torque and don't loosen any that are up to torque setting. This is just a general guide and I'm sure you will get other opinions. If the engine is rebuilt with everything in spec don't be afraid to go with it unless a problem is noticed. easy to break in to easy as it is to hard.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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