Well first ya have to figure out WHY , So lets start with does the rest of the hyd. system work??? Will the three point or fast hitch rise and lower ?? IF not then you have a major problem as the input shaft for the PTO just went south and to repair you will need to split the tractor at the bellhousing and replace the input shaft bearing and seals and a new clutch . IF the rear hitch still works then your problem is in the MCV area (1) you lost prime due to a plugged filter or sucking air or your low on Hdy fluid (2) Does your oil lite work ??? , is it blinking at you ??? IF it is not working when you turn the key on then fix it ( bad bulb ?? ) Could be that the flow divider has stuck or the pressure reg. valve ?? Do you have a BOOK ?? if not get one and read. Things to do now is check fluid level , change hyd. filter and gskt. top off hyd. oil , Next run tractor at 1800-2000 RPM and turn steering wheel to left to see if it will pick up prime IF the rear hitch is working . Also you can remove the plug on the back side of the MCV that takes a 9/16ths wrench and start the tractor at ideal and be ready to shut if off FAST because if it is air locked once she picks up prime it will shoot a LOT of oil out real fast . then replace the plug and you should be good to go .
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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