While you are waiting on a new spring; You can shorten your old spring by cutting off the hook and then bending a new hook from the remaining portion (essentially both shortens and stiffens the spring).
I went through this on a Farmall M. I had to actually shorten my spring twice actually as it was very loose. (my fly weights were surprising not sloppy on the pivots which can also be another seperate issue) When I shortened my spring the first time, it improved my problems but did not quite get me to spec. When I shortened it the second time, then I hit perfection on both low idle and high idle. I may eventually order a new spring and put in there, but until then I am in business.
Also take a putty knife and clean all the crud, grease, and grime away from that area between the engine block and the external arm on the outside of the governor assembly as that can cause issues
I verified all my settings with a handheld friction drive tachometer on the PTO shaft. A handheld tach is a good way to very your dash tach is working properly - although you do need to know at what rpm the PTO should spin at low idle and high idle. I have seen NOS Stewart Warner Ones on ebay for $25-$30 or so which is an incredibly good deal. Dad paid over $70 for his Stewart Warner tach back in the 1970's for use on combine shafts and $70 in the 1970's was a lot of money back then as it had lots of buying power - unlike today sadly.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family’s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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