Mystery solved on this one. There was no crystalized metal or anything of that nature. The root of the problem is that wheel cast center has its keyway broken out. The wheel's keyway was not a fresh break either. It was an old break and the keyway was long gone from a previous owner. When the previous owner patched it back together he even used a hodge podge of mismatched bolt head sizes.
In essence, the keyway in the clamp was the only think keeping the wheel from spinning on the shaft. Has been fine for me for the few years that I have owned this ole tractor pulling my usual light loads (e.g. raking hay and pulling baler), but that subsoiler is all the h could handle in 1st gear WOT in my hard- pack clay soil and that is what did it in as there should be a keyway in both the wheel hub and well as the clamp.
I have it patched back together with a used clamp, so I can move the tractor around. I will be replacing the entire cast wheel center come spring (when warmer weather arrives). I can easily paint the wheel cast center as well as the rim when I have everything apart in warmer weather.
Until I replace that wheel center I will simply refrain from working the tractor hard.[/u]
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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