I do not add anything to my gas, and I have tried different brands and they all turn my neeedle valve tips to goo in 6 months. I can take the carb apart and see even the weight of the floats isn't opening the needle valve, I have to shake it really hard to before the valve drops open.
There are many different grades of viton, and only high grade viton lasts with E10. I am also into old cars and a quick look on old car forums you will see there is alot of talk about E10 eating away cheap grade carb rebuild kits from the chain stores. There have even been tests of different grade viton needle valves submerged in E10 and E85. So of the cheaper ones turned to goo in 2 hours while the better ones remained okay after weeks. My old Buick has a viton needle valve that doesn't give me any issue but it is a known high grade viton valve.
I have even searched on tractor forums and sticking needle valves seem to have become alot more common in recent years with tractors. It seems while you can get high grade viton needle valves for some car carburetors like Quadrajets, it seems no one makes high grade viton valves for old tractors.
I have tried different brands of replacement needle valves and they all have failed in 6 months on me. Maybe they are adding something else into my gas that you guys don't get? Maybe you have lucked out and have higher grade viton needle valves than what I can find? All I know for sure is I am tired of changing out needle valves and I want to try an old style metal tipped one. The only one I can find are for Cubs. However some of the parts sites show Needle valves between Cubs and As interchange, is this true? Sorry for the long rant LOL, but this has problem has been really getting at me.
Due to the advent of EFI, carburetor parts are slow sellers these days and it is unlikely anyone will step up with high grade viton needle valves for our old iron. In which case I am forced to downgrade to metal tipped valves that can witthstand E10 better if I can even do that.
Just a quick side note. You will see some folks post that they have not had any troubles with this new fuel, even so, most of this comes from the fact that their old rubber parts are near the end of their life cycle. New rubber and low grade viton is very soft, and in contact with this new fuel fails immediately. Rubber and low grade viton that's been in service for a while before being exposed to E10 is much harder, and resists swelling in contact with the new fuel. Eventually, however, it will still crack/break/stick.
The best quality Viton seal is impervious to the new fuels. They will be very dark blue, cheap viton will be lighter blue, and all the different brads of needle valves I tried on my A are all very light blues. Anyone run into a brand that is a darker blue viton?
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Today's Featured Article - A Tractor's Point of View - by John Manley. I began my life on August 3,1941. I was actually built at different times and days but I was officially an M Farmall on August 3.I was real nice and shiny. That’s me, in the old picture, third from the left. I was loaded on that train and sent to a little town in South Carolina. I didn’t get to see much of that town. I was moved off the train fast and on to the dealer’s
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