Here is a basic overview and repair steps. The brakes are designed to self energize. when the disk expander is moved by the linkages, the motion of the disks helps drag the plates farther apart. This assists in braking effort with less pedal pressure. If the balls are rusty, or the ramps they run in have grooves, or the friction material is too thin, or there is sticky grease or glaze on the disks, the problem will occur. the critical dimension for success is the amount of clearance in the internal plates and the expander compared to the distance between the friction surface on the tractor housing and the brake housing/cover. The total stack height clearance should be about .030 to .050" measuring the disks and plate, then comparing that total to the housing space between the tractor friction surface, and the housing surface. (and adjusters on the rod not pre pulling the expander) another way to check this clearance is to put all the components into the housing and measure up to the mating surface (where the housing would bolt to the tractor) this needs to meet the above specification. If the disks are worn thin, they can be replaced. if they are 5/16" or so thick and the specification is still too wide, the housing must be machined at that mating surface to tighten it up. Even new friction disks may not provide this reduced clearance due to wear on the housing and plates and brake cover. (Worn steel surfaces)
If this is the case, the housing can be machined (machine shop) thinner at its inner contact surface to bring the stack into proximity.
Non-directional sanding of components with 250 grit paper will help when putting them together.
A skiff of silver anti-seize compound on the balls and ramps works for me. Others believe they should be dry, others use a bit of graphite and a tiny bit of grease to hold the graphite on the balls and ramps. Do not lube them liberally.
Leaky shaft seals are also a problem, and if leaking must be replaced.
The measurement from the mating surface of the housing casting (where it attaches to the tractor) to friction surface down in its depths is important. so do not skip this step. The pulling forces on the two link bars is only advantageous when the clearance is correct. Adjust the pedal (bolt through spring) so it starts feeling hard to push at about 1.5 inches from all the way up.
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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