Posted by Janicholson on January 09, 2014 at 20:00:21 from (74.60.94.18):
In Reply to: Farmall C points posted by Noah in IA on January 09, 2014 at 17:47:59:
If you ,ark the position of the Rotor tip very carefully, and watch what happens to the rotor as you pull the distributor out, and if it goes back in to exactly that spot, all is well. The dust cap is not essential. Many many Farmalls with no dust cap. Be sure the centrifugal advance works. If the rotor can turn a few degrees in the direction of the rotors rotation (CW) then spring back to prior position it is probably fine. If it moves and stays, or flops with no spring action it is not OK. Let us know if this happens. Which ever way you decide to work on it, be very careful to not drop screws. Be careful to look at the exact order of the leads going to the connection stud to the coil. Polish the contacts with fine paper sideways to the easy way. Be sure the cam lobe is fully pushing the points open when you set the gap (.020"). Put a dab of point lune on the side of the new point's rubbing block that is CCW of the block. (lets lube go into the gap when the cam passes by (use about a baby aspirin amount. Do not over tighten the screws or use a dull screwdriver. Use good light and warmth!! be sure the leads do not accidentally touch ground, it will not run that way. Do not grind off corrosion on the cap or rotor. a light sanding is OK but do not scratch the interior of the cap it will make conductive traces later. It is simple but not easy to do it right till your third or fourth set is changed. Go for it. I also would only change the condenser if there were radical signs of point erossion or a 1/16" spike on one point and a pit on the other. There are many bad condensers that are new. (How often do you change them in your other electronic equipment? NEVER. They used to be made from rolled up wax paper and tin foil. They (good ones) last for a long long time now. Jim
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