I laid out what all we do to them. We just BUILD the engine . Line boring decking balancing and hand fitting along with a rebuilt cam . Having the cam rebuilt could have something to do with it as the custom grinding of the cam would make it like a BLUE PRINTED cam , We did this many years back making a stock engine a little better then a stock engine. Balancing helps fitting each piston to each hole helps since ya never get a perfect set of pistons out of the box . Also engine tuning from setting the valves down to setting points and timing . Working on the carb . It is the little things that help. I have always been good at tuning engines even when i was a young kid i could tune better then most . I have worked on all kinds . Worked on 427 Ford DOHC's 351 and 429 Boss Fords. Hemi's 392-426. helped a friend on his 487 Donaven ,tons of FE block Fords All the Wedge block Mo Par's Cummins Cat's Detroit's and god only knows what else . Always had fast cars and was always trying to make them go faster . Worked at a Chrysler Plymouth dealership and there all i worked on was the Road Runners , GTX's and Cuda's . I was one of the two that were trained and certified on Hemi's and 440 six pac's. I was offered a job at a Ford Dealer ship to take over there drag program with with a substantial pay increase and i went there and gained a lot . They found out i could work on diesels also and i got truck work also . When we did the first change over from 263 to 291 we did this because the block was 5 D class holes and one A class hole . By going the 291 route all the holes will be the same and having a close friend with a machine shop with his stationary boring bar and his LINE BORE set up , (notice i did not say LINE HONE ) we could line bore the bottom end and take any tweaks out of the bottom and once the line bore was done we could set up on the stationary boring machine and set up off the center line of the block and get all six hole in line and all the same size for proper sleeve fit . Then it is on to the rods and crank and get them all nice and round . Once that is done now if you want to get down wright deep into engine building then the pistons are next weighing and matching , find the light one and making the rest match. and you can do the same on the rods . Now that is all done ya throw the crank flywheel one rod one piston one bearing and one set of rings in a box and it off to get anything that goes round and round balanced . THIS IS CHEAP horse power . when everything comes back you are still not ready to stuff her together as now you have all the pistons back you set down and MIC each one and you take a marker and put the size of that piston on top . Then you can put the rods on and the rings and now you can start to fit that piston to the hole that it is going in , with the help of and inside MIc and a Dial Bore gauge and a ridgid hone you hone that brand new sleeve to fit that piston . Once that is all done you are still not ready to BUILD the engine . NOW you clean and clean and clean some more You scrub all the oil galleys you scrub the cam bores ya scrub the main saddled and you scrub the sleeves till the start to rust Ya blow them dry and oil them you oil everything that you scrubbed Then you put the cam bearings in and now you can set the crank in DRY on the new bearing and check them to make sure you have your clearances . If that is good ya clean off the plasta gauge and lube up the crank and put her in . stuff the cam in and get it set and then the rods and pistons , once there in and all is well there ya can put the oil pump in the timing cover on and the pan . as for the head just a plain jane three angle valve job and make sure the head is flat , oh i forgot to mention on the block when your down this far and getting the machine work don it is wise to have the deck of the block lightly dusted with the mill to make sure that it is nice and flat Do this before you do the boring as normally when your doing the boring ya cut the contour bores at the same time and you will not have to go back and redo . Also on the head work NOW is the time to have the rocker arms dressed to get rid of the ware pattern from the valve stem .. Once ya have her back in the tractor and running don't let it just set at one speed for to long after the cam break in run her up and back down once everything is nice and hot shut her down and retorque the head and the intake -exhaust manifold and reset your valves and go over the valve set several times and roll the engine over between each set . YOU will be surprised . For break in the only NO NO is heavy work , Plowing Chopping discing and grinding feed for the first thirty hours Change oil at ten hours and again at twenty five hours and at forty hours . After that back to reg. oil changes and ya use nothing in a IH GAS BURNER but LOW ASH .
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.