They are about 1.25" into the casting (IIRC) but the best method is to weld a nut to the existing material then let it cool and back it out. To hold the nut in place a piece o plumbers tape about 6 inches long duct taped to the casting on each end will hold the nut upside down. The heat of the arc weld disrupts the bolt threads rust and they are usually not radically rusty unless they have been broken for a long time, and exposed to the elements. Drilling up into them is Ok. feel on the drill as it goes through the bolt, and into the space above the end of the bolt is important as who knows what bolt was used in the hole over the years. Even if it is bottomed out in the partial threads, it is pretty easy to feel the difference when it goes through the bolt and into the cast iron. The shavings from cast iron are near powder, the bolt will be harder, and make curled swarf. The best easy outs are not spiral, they are a square taper and straight sided. These dont swell the thing being removed, they just turn on it after being pounded in a ways. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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