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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: 826 Park Lock


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Posted by mkirsch on March 11, 2014 at 10:22:04 from (65.199.189.6):

In Reply to: 826 Park Lock posted by pete on March 11, 2014 at 09:16:58:

What exactly is the problem? Lever won't move? Lever moves, but lock won't disengage?

Lubing is a waste of time because you can't get at most of the park lock mechanism without removing the deck and range transmission cover. The external linkages are usually worn beyond where lube will have any effect.

If you really think the lever is set up, you can simply detach the linkage from the lever or the plunger where it goes into the transmission, and work the lever to see if the problem is there.

Odds are it's jammed it up from not being COMPLETELY stopped when it was engaged, or by having the tractor in a range gear, or by shoving the lever down.

If you know this already, skip the following obligatory lecture:

It's a park LOCK, not a brake. It's a latch (aka pawl) that engages the reverse idler gear and prevents the transmission from turning. The tractor has to be 100% stopped, and the range transmission has to be in neutral when you engage the park lock. To engage the park lock you DROP the lever. Do not push or step on the lever to force it down. If it does not completely engage, feather the brakes so the tractor rolls a little until the pawl lines up with a gear tooth. Or, if the tractor won't roll, get up and step on a tire lug. Your weight will shift the tractor enough to make the pawl drop.

There are shields on the range linkage that are supposed to prevent the park lock from being engaged when the tractor is not in neutral, but if the linkages are worn, you can slip the tractor into park while it is still in gear.

I learned real quick at a young age to MAKE %$#@ SURE the tractor is in neutral before dropping the park lever.

Dad was not happy the first time, and even less so the second time. Suffice it to say, there was NOT a third time. I would've needed skin grafts on my butt, for sure...


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