I took off the plate on the floor of the tractor that the linkage goes through, it's triangular kind of and had four bolts holding it to the top if the transmission housing underneath the floor plate. But I think your talking there are springs up in the top of the linkage in the dash right? I consulted the manual and see what you're referring to I think. Sorry I didn't describe the problem well. The gear shifter moves freely in neutral, then it'll go into say 3rd fine but then when you go back to neutral and go to fourth, it doesn't want to go into up into gear at all. You have to go back to third and play with it. When I let the clutch out in gear it strains and acts like it may be in two gears or perhaps inbetween. I don't get how that could be, when I did put the tractor back together I pulled the shifter rods to neutral so I could roll the halves together. Then I put the shifter in neutral, pulled all the pins out to the same length and re attached the linkage. Is that how it's done? Is neutral when all shifter rods are even? Before splitting the tractor everything in shifting was tight and it was very clear when it popped from gear to neutral.. I guess what I'm saying is it seems too easy to move the shifter sometimes and the only time it gets hard is when it won't go into gear.... Sorry for being so long winded this something you kinda go to see to diagnose..
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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