The proper technique in that situation, at least the way I've been taught, is to raise the front of the plow slightly to keep moving. If that doesn't help, raise the rear too.
You don't want to just bull through, and you probably can't. All you'll do is dig a hole and get the tractor stuck. It's better to leave wet patches just skimmed over, or even unplowed, than to try and plow everything to the exact same depth.
In these situations the draft control is actually fighting you. When you lose traction the draft control says, "Oh it's pulling easier, I'm going to sink 'er in deeper!" You have to make manual adjustments or the draft control is going to drop the plow like an anchor in the soft wet ground.
That tractor should be able to pull the plow in at least 3rd.
Pull the TA to slow down near the end of a row, or when the tractor starts lugging. Pulling it while the tractor is spinning just makes it spin slower, so it takes longer to get yourself stuck.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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