The proper technique in that situation, at least the way I've been taught, is to raise the front of the plow slightly to keep moving. If that doesn't help, raise the rear too.
You don't want to just bull through, and you probably can't. All you'll do is dig a hole and get the tractor stuck. It's better to leave wet patches just skimmed over, or even unplowed, than to try and plow everything to the exact same depth.
In these situations the draft control is actually fighting you. When you lose traction the draft control says, "Oh it's pulling easier, I'm going to sink 'er in deeper!" You have to make manual adjustments or the draft control is going to drop the plow like an anchor in the soft wet ground.
That tractor should be able to pull the plow in at least 3rd.
Pull the TA to slow down near the end of a row, or when the tractor starts lugging. Pulling it while the tractor is spinning just makes it spin slower, so it takes longer to get yourself stuck.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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