just from what you are saying about dirty gas is your problem. all it takes is a spec of dirt to flow into carb and you are in trouble. these carbs with the fuel pumps are more prone to problem. the fuel is pumped into carb under pressure and is always stirred up. excess fuel is returned to tank. soo... you have to start right at tank and make sure it is clean. make sure fuel pump works. check flow and pressure. a needle valve cannot be the problem,... its the stuff plugging it is the problem. take your tank to a rad shop and they will boil it out in caustic. you will never get it cleaned by flushing with gas or diesel. the rust flakes just keep falling of and go into the carb. good idea to put an inline filter before carb also. most of those sediment bowl screens got thrown out. and then once tank is cleaned, if required it can be sealed.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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