Wide tread spacing and wide grouser plates are going to assist with stability and floatation. Though I am a red (tractorially) guy I believe that all 1955 and newer crawlers are going to be about equal in usefulness. With that said the reality is condition, particularly the tracks and undercarrage. These are more expensive to repair and problematic if worn than the engine or cosmetics. From track pin/bushings to bogie wheel life and bearings, to the drive sprocket wear, the undercarriage must be serviceable. If you are not sure how to assess these, find someone who knows and have them assess the condition. Track clutches and track brakes should be included in the analysis. Do not buy a crawler with a differential and just track brakes (no clutches) early Oliver and Cleatrack machines are to be avoided for this reason. They turn, but not well, and not under load. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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