You don't need anything that fancy unless they have been welded in by rust, meaning the head has been removed and years of water has rusted them in.
An old geezer taught me to use a block of wood, preferably made from oak, but I have been know to use pine and it works ok. Remove the piston out the bottom of the engine, and using this block of wood against the bottom of the sleeve, tap on the wood block with a small sledge. The sleeve just has to move about 3/8 of an inch on the top and it will come free; about an inch on the bottom and the same will be true. Wet sleeves mean that they are relieved in the middle of the outside diameter of the sleeve and once they are moved past the part that touches the block, they will slide right out. Dry sleeves are a bugger as the whole outside diameter contacts the block.
Make sure you replace the O-rings in the block; if not you will most likely be taking the engine apart to replace them anyways as water will leak into the oil pan. Never had one not leak when I cut corners.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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