We had problems with shear pins too on ours when I was helping pop. I seem to remember we would have to check the bale tie mechanism once in a while too. When we were using it in the 70s and 80s, if the shear pin sheared, we would replace it and check the knotter by forcing it to tie early. There is a bar on the back that you can pull up which activates the knotter. Our bales were the small type but we set them to about 100 lbs per bale. We also slowed down if the hay was binding too much. Too much hay in the chamber also made the shear pin on the fork to shear. We broke open the small bales we made testing the system and rebaled them into regular sized 2 wire bales. Those were the 57 and 55 IH balers we had. A little story, we had and issue with hay not going into the chamber after being pulled up by the sweeper front. I think it was either my dad or gpa that took a shovel and pushed the hay a little way into the chamber and the shovel went into the chamber. That shovel became a corrigate shovel pretty quickly. We took that bale apart and framed the shovel and all 4 pieces of handle with it as a guide as to what not to do.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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