Posted by John T on July 23, 2014 at 04:54:29 from (216.249.72.121):
In Reply to: farmall 300 condenser posted by transtar61 on July 22, 2014 at 15:58:26:
Sure, moreso nowadays Ive seen new out of the box condensors go bad (poor quality control), but if its a good one they usually last a longggggggggg time. If an ignition systems LV primary (coil + any ballast) doesnt have enough resistance (to limit current to 4 to 5 amps) that can be harder on points due to excess current switching, but since a condensor's voltage rating is several hundred volts anyway, I don't see it as what you call "burning up condensors" but I could envision the condenser absorbing and discharging a tad more energy each cycle as points current is increased. I guess what I'm saying is an excess in current (due to wrong coil + ballast or too low resistance coil) is more harmful to the points then the condenser, but I just dont see it as trashing condensors as fast as you install them.
If youre at 12 volts no ballast, the coil MUST BE A FULL 12 VOLT COIL. Such may be labeled "12 Volts" or "12 Volts NO ballast required" or "12 Volts NOT for use with ballast resistor" If the coil is labeled "12 volts for use with (or requires) ballast resistor" that will burn up points quicker unless an external ballast is used.
Other things might be the condensor isn't mounted tightly and is vibrating or running a bit warmer.
The term "burning up condensors" isn't much help, is it really really causing condensors to go bad and how does he know they are bad??? While a low voltage analog ohm meter kickback test can indicate charging ability to some extent and can show if a condenser is bad/shorted, it takes a real capacitor tester to fully truly test a condensor. A capacitor would show an open circuit to straight DC once its charged up and should NOT read a closed circuit short, that's definitely BAD if its a short to DC
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