I did some research on this gear oil thing and even made phone calls to the manufacturers. The sulpherized EP additives are what can attack bronze, brass and copper. That said, they're virtually all chemically buffered so as to not do that. Now in particular, if you can find "MT-1" somewhere on the label then it is definately buffered so as not to attack soft metals. The "MT" stands for manual transmissions and the buffering protects the synchronizer rings.
Now of course an H has no synchronizer rings and in fact the only thing in there to even worry about are the reverse idler bushings and the pto pilot bushing. Everything else is cast iron or steel.
All that said, the real problem with the EP additives in GL4 and GL5 is that they can react with water to form sulphuric acid. So the inevitable condensation that can form in the case of a tractor left outside combined with a modern lube can end up with surface rust on gear teeth and bearing balls, any of the shiny stuff first. If you store the thing inside or use it regualrly it's not so much an issue.
I've looked in some fence row tractors that had the old original goopy lube and find no rust or corrosion. I've looked in some that were use more recently and thus had fluids updated and then sat and I find rust and corrosion.
The safest bet is to use one of the UTF lubes (Hytran, etc) as they are designed to pick up and remove water and use different additives. Of course the trans and rear probably will be more talky talky.
GL5 contains twice as much EP as GL4 but GL4 is hard to find. Some people have been cutting the GL5 with UTF at 50/50. I haven't tried that yet but probably will at some point.
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