The hub on the left is for adjustable front tread and the one on the right is fixed width tread. Either is correct. You could probably find a complete pedestal with both hubs and wheels matching cheaper than individual parts.
If the carb number on the tag starts with a 5 it's gasoline, if 4 then it's a distillate carb. The difference is in the drilled emulsifier tube that goes from the jet into the throat of the venturi.
If it's originally distillate it will work fine on gasoline. You will simply adjust the main jet accordingly.
On the clutch it really depends on the condition of the flywheel and pp surface, which we can't see in the photo. Also if these surfaces are flat or not. You can check each with a good straightedge and use your judgement. Ideally you would have flywheel and pp ground and new springs and fingers on pp as well as re-line the disk. It depends on how hard you intend to work the tractor. The offset is any material ground off can't be put back and as far as I know they aren't making new H flywheels.
If you have a good local shop they may be able to do a better job than ordering a mystery set online. I just got a disk for an M re-lined locally for about 60 bucks. They used good Raybestos material and the owner of the shop backs his work.
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Today's Featured Article - Maintaining Rubber Tires - by Staff. The broad use of rubber tires on farm tractors and machinery has resulted in a great saving in both time and operating costs since the time of steel wheels. There are, however, certain basic fundamentals in the care of tires that should be followed carefully if the owner is to derive maximum benefit from his or her investment. First and most important is to maintain proper pressure for the work at hand. Your best guide to proper inflation is the operator's manual or instruction book tha
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