You already have 3 good answers, but to add a little more:
Cub oil filters were redesigned over the years. So you could pull out an old one that looks different then the new ones. However, they are all the same overall size and interchange.
There were 2 designs of the top that goes over the filter. The early one was a die cast part, slightly dished up. It was easily deformed (until it dished down). After it was bent, it was very difficult to keep from leaking. The second design was heavy stamped steel. It had more of a cone shape to the center. It was much more resistant to bending when overtightened. Both designs interchange, using the same center bolt and filter.
By the way, there were 2 center bolts as well. It changed when the engine block went from "R7" to "R8". They do not interchange into the wrong block.
You need a gasket on the center bolt. Some people have used the washer/o-ring type seal you find on some oil pan drain plugs. A generic one of the proper size can be found at most auto parts stores. I haven't resorted to that myself.
(Edited because John M posted while I was typing.)
This post was edited by Jim Becker at 06:27:28 10/14/14.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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