There are many mount systems shown in the archives. Some are on larger series tractors, but they are similar in that the belt alignment is key. The wiring diagram and installation pics are for a different tractor, but essentially the same. Hitachi 14231 is the #. The Hitachi is seriously easier to fit. The Use of 1/4" female insulated spade terminals works on the connections. The S terminal connects directly to the big terminal with a short wire, 14 gauge is OK. the L terminal connects to the ignition through a marker lamp (not LED style)or a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor, or a 3 amp diode with the band toward the alternator. It should get power from the ignition switch, full bat voltage. The big terminal attaches to the amp meter using 10 gauge wire. (reverse the leads on the amp meter, hook the battery up negative ground, and replace the light bulbs.) I like to put a 40 amp fuse, or fuse link, in the wire going to the Battery from the amp gauge to protect things if connections are made wrong when jumping, or the alt fails. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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