The gear box should use a gear lubricant. Something like a SAE 90 or 85W140. If the seals and bushings are good/replaced on both shafts, the gear box should retain the lubricant.
The vertical/bolster shaft thrust bearing is not a tapered bearing. The original style used on earlier tractors was a 3-piece bearing with 2 races and a grouping of balls in a cage between them. The later style is a self-contained thrust ball bearing, and this type can be used to replace the 3-piece bearing. Both styles were made by Aetna for IH.
There's two bushings needed for the vertical/bolster shaft, and the large bottom bushing is usually worn out of round or can even be worn through. The shaft can be worn in the same spot, as well.
It's also possible that a power steering or u-joint issue could give a "hard spot" sensation.
Q. #1: The curved pieces above the moldboards are usually referred to as "coverboards". If they are IH parts, both steel and poly should be available from CIH. I think Wiese is an aftermarket option that has a coverboard available yet with the IH bolt pattern/ bolt size. If your coverboards are part of a complete aftermarket attachment, it may depend on the bolt spacing and bolt size to see if something is still available that will work. Yetter and a few other aftermarket/short line companies made coverboard attachments through the years.
I'm not really familiar with the later bevel gear style mechanical lift gearboxes on plows, so I'll let someone else tackle that one.
Q. #2: Some water pumps are stubborn when it comes to seeping antifreeze. Try tightening the nut. M's need a spanner wrench to tighten/loosen the gland nut. Old packing from IH looks like it was either lead or graphite impregnated, packing available today from CIH appears to be teflon. You can add another piece of packing if you can't tighten the nut any further. Some people use properly sized pump packing from companies such as Garlock, as well. There may be other internal issues, including, but not limited to impeller shaft wear/pitting/damage that can stymie your attempts at sealing it.
Your best bet for ending up with a quality radiator is having your radiator recored. If your tanks are good, your framework isn't damaged or rotten, and you have a trustworthy shop locally that will do the work, I'd recommend this route.
Your least expensive option for a radiator will most likely be an import from China. My best wishes in getting one of these posititioned to allow the sheet metal to fit fairly close while at the same time keep the steering shaft from rubbing where it goes through the top tank. Many, myself included, have experienced fitment and other issues with these radiators.
AG
This post was edited by AG in IN at 16:07:33 01/03/15 3 times.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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