I soda blasted all my parts once I had them off & cleaned up, taped off the ball & ramp areas first, when done soda blasting I cleaned the ramp areas up by hand with a wire wheel & emery cloth, you don't want to remove hardly any metal in these areas.
I then took all this to a friend that has a mill & lathe, first he milled the inside of the brake surfaces inside the brake housings, took off around .005 to clean them up & get them perfectly flat, he then milled around .008 off of each actuator to get them flat, put a finish cut on each one similar to an auto brake rotor. Smooth but not shiny. I bought new brake discs, balls & springs. We assembled each stack inside the brake housing and he then machined the mounting surface of the brake housing to give .045 clearance.
The brake surfaces on the bull pinion retainers were checked with a straightedge and were not worthy of having machined so I just knocked the glaze off of those with a 120 grit scotch brite rotary pad in my air drill, go easy, you just want to knock the glaze off. I replaced the orings & oil seals while I had them off.
I have more than enough stopping power now, they release like they should, and no "locking up" the wheel when the brakes are barely applied.
This post was edited by rhtx55 at 16:35:09 01/27/15 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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