First thing I notice is that the terminal on the right of your battery disconnect shows it's gotten hot, which indicates that it has a bad connection. I'd shorten that cable and replace that loop, or replace the cable. It doesn't take much resistance at 150 or so amps during start to drop the battery voltage to where it may seem weak. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage - it should be a minimum of 12.6. Freshly charged (but with the charger off), it can be as much as 13.2 or so. Don't even bother checking it with the charger on, as it won't tell you anything relevant to the battery condition. With a fully charged battery, have someone crank the motor while you are measuring the voltage between the battery neg post and the frame - it shouldn't show more than about .5v (1/2 volt) If it does, there are definitely problems in the neg side of your circuit, which may include a problem with the battery disconnect switch.
Second thing, NORMALLY, a battery disconnect goes in the non-grounded side of the circuit, in your case, the + side. Not that it HAS to be done that way, it's just quite odd to do otherwise.
Other than that, the fact that it cranks says you're getting close to having it fixed.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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