5/16 on the recessed plug. They can be real tight so I cut off a good grade 3/4 or 5/8 bolt and ground and filed a square the correct size on the end to try and not twist in two. Then use a wrench on the head. May also want to change the PTO oil also. Good bit of oil will still be trapped in after draining at the three places. Chances are the new oil will turn milky after running. Some have filtered and heated the old oil to burn off the moisture then putting it back and running a short time before draining again. Repeat as needed until it gets better, then put new in. Some put diesel or other in and run a short time. Don't like to do that on those myself because the amount of fluid trapped in the T/A cavity, above the T shaped plate on the bottom of center housing and other places. If you have the means to raise the front of tractor near straight up for 5 minutes a good percent of the trapped oil will go to the rear.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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