Unless you are completely rewiring the tractor you do not use the L terminal. With the cutout you showed in the first picture, the lights, etc. get their power from a lead running from the ammeter to the light switch. You also will need to disconnect the original wire that went from the F of the generator to the light switch. That lead was to control the charge rate, which will now be controlled by the FLD terminal of the regulator. Your wiring would be L of regulator not used, BAT of regulator to the battery lead. F of regulator to F of generator. A of generator to the lead on the bottom of the regulator. To polarize jump from the BAT or L terminal to A terminal. The BAT and L terminal are connected inside the regulator via a coil to better control charge rate.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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