Coil and Distributor

Posted by john in la on November 15, 2004 at 05:36:19 from (66.157.27.124):

In Reply to: Ford Hundred Series 12V Conversion (very long) posted by john in la on November 15, 2004 at 05:32:11:

6) Coil and Distributor
Every thing in your distributor stays the same. The points; condenser; rotor; and cap will all work with either 6v or 12v. The only upgrade you could do here is if you wanted to change over to electronic ignition. Do not rule out the electronic upgrade to fast either. Some think of electronic ignition and they think of new cars with computers and all those sensors and wiring. This is not true. The only thing you replace is the points; condenser; and advance weights. Everything fits inside the distributor cap. If you want to research it more go to Genesee products web site. They have the kit for $89.95.
If you decide to keep your points and condenser we need to look at the coil though.
The 6v coil will work but you need to add a 12v to 6v resistor in the wire to the coil. Since you are changing over to 12v for better cranking and a more reliable spark at the plugs I think it is best to replace your old coil with a new 12v coil. This is also something to think about if getting a kit. Most kits come with a 12v to 6v resistor. If you want to put in a 12v coil you will need to throw away the resistor and buy a 12v coil locally.
To get the right one we will look at this in detail.
A 12V coil really works on about 8 or 9 volts so it must have a resistor or some form of resistance in the wiring.

The first type and the most common one is with a external resistor. They put the resistor on the out side of the coil so they can bypass it and give the coil a full 12V shot while cranking for easier starting. That point is really mute on these tractors because we do not use the starter relay needed to do this. Remember I told you the starter relay from the car parts store does not work on these tractors with a grounding starter switch. While these coils are easy to use; work very well; and may cost less; I try not to recommend them because of the added resistor needed in the wire. If you do not have the resistor that goes with your coil it will not work properly and you will be replacing coils because they over heat and burn out or do not get enough power. This is why I recommend you use a coil with the internal resistor. It is just easier on me to tell you how to wire the internal resistor coil. If you get a coil that needs a external resistor and get the proper resistor to go with that coil you just need to wire the resistor in the wire from the terminal block to the coil so it cuts the power to the coil. This resistor will get very hot during use so mount it so it does not burn any wire coating or such.

The second type is a 12V coil with a internal resistance caused by extra wiring in the coil. It will be marked “No External Resistor Required” or something similar. If it is not marked it is NOT a internal resistance coil and will require a external resistor. This point is very important if you are buying a kit that has a coil included. My AutoZone store did not have this coil in stock. It is not a very common coil because like I said auto manufactures like to use the external resistor coil so they can bypass it during start up. I did find some at my local NAPA store. The cheaper (notice I did not say cheap as in inferior) brand had a part # of IC14-SB $13.99. If they do not have this one you could get the Echlin brand part # IC14 but it cost more.

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