Your carb is probably easily re-buildable. That's the way I would go. The only parts that are different between the gas only and all fuel carbs are the nozzle and the number/location of the pin ports in bore by throttle plate , and they have the little screw type economizer valve. All carbs from '47 on back have this and are considered "all fuel" carbs. Trust me, your tractor will operate just fine on gas with an all fuel carb. It wasn't about how they will or will not run correctly...it was all about fuel economy back then. That being said...it must be rebuilt correctly...drilled out passages , tight throttle shaft/bushings / throttle plate , bushing inner ends ground to fit bore curvature perfectly , adjusting needles replaced if grooves worn in the ends, correct float level , open vent passages , and correct procedure for adjusting idle/load needles. Not many , other than reputable builders, ever get all this correct. I'm trying not to make this an advertisement and offered my e-mail to no avail , so here is my card and would be glad to build you a perfect carb from yours.Please call my number before deciding. RB
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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