I recall a heat saturation problem with the starter motor. As I recall, the exhaust from the center of the right side manifold angles back towards the starter motor and comes close enough to really heat it up. I think earlier models had the exhaust pipe coming more straight down and thus being further from the starter. If your pipe is within 1 or 2 inches from the starter, then heat is the likely problem. The simple no cost solution is to make a sheet metal heat shield and use stainless steel hose clamps to hold it to the down pipe. When the starter is way too hot, it draws too much current, and the voltage to the electronic spark is too low to fire the plugs. The older mechanical points performed better in these marginal conditions.
But there is also a heat/vapor problem with the fuel pump located at the lower right front of the block. It also can be affected by the heat of that same exhaust pipe. Today's gas turns to vapor at lower temps than any gas in use when these trucks were the common workhorse of the farm. Some guys get around this problem by using an electric fuel pump located close to the fuel tank, and bypassing the mechanical fuel pump. And then shielding the fuel pipe to the carb with tin foil wrap.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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