Personally... if they are tubeless wheels and tubeless tires... I would not have any blasted tube in it. If they're tube type... use tubes. I've generally found (with a few exceptions) that tubeless tires cause FAR LESS trouble than tube types. Today... I'm repairing a Michelin AgriBib that had a tube. It ripped the stem off the tube... Calcium everywhere. It's going back tubeless to match the one on the other side that did the same thing a year or two ago. It's going on dry too. The older I get the more I hate tubes and calcium.
Your call on what you do...
As far as the pricing goes... there's a lot of different wheels out there at a lot of different prices. You can buy genuine NH that's made in the UK by GKN Sankey. It's expensive. You can buy Unverferth that's made in the US... and it's probably just as expensive... or you can buy A&I... that's probably made in Turkey. It's not so expensive to buy but they're just plain cheap, soft wheels. If they fit... PErsonally... I buy Sankey wheels for my own stuff. For customers who are trying to save a buck I will get A&I stuff if they want it. My guess... where you have a loader on this thing... you'll be looking for a Sankey wheel in a year or two when the centers break clean out of these ones. There is a difference... it's not just markup.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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