Do remember to push ahead on the socket before you turn the bolt. This will disengage the lock... Also, if it doesn't turn it's possible that the mechanism is seized. What that bolt does is simply turn a gear that is in mesh with a large ring in the back of the clutch cover. The ring is threaded into the cover and it pushes against the pressure plate. The ring can and often does seize. If it does you will need to pound on the clutch cover to see if it will free up. If not you drop the transmission.
Also... generally speaking... if you have not changed the free travel in the clutch linkage, DO NOT change the FREE TRAVEL in the linkage. Any clutch adjustments on these clutches are made on the adjuster ring as described. What you're aiming to do on that adjustment is bring the pressure plate back so that the distance between the release bearing and transmission cover is about 1/2" (without clutch brake) or basically until the clutch brake disc is tight with the pedal fully depressed if it has the clutch brake.
Again, if you can't get it adjusted, you need to drop the tranny to change the clutch. Also... the adjuster bolt will break off if you try hard enough...
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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