10-4. It runs between the tranny and the final drive. I was going to suggest to put it in gear, let the clutch out and then step on each brake individually to see if one of the brakes makes the combine move forward but you say you lost both brakes so that idea's out. If it is a driveshaft have someone sit in the combine and put it in gear and let the clutch out. Then look at the driveshafts and see if one is just sitting there turning. If both of them aren't turning then look closely at the stub shaft coming out of the brake housing and going into the coupler. I'm not sure if you can see it or if the coupler is too close to the brake drum to allow you to see it. The brakes are manually operated brakes that are on each side of the tranny so if you lose the driveshaft or if a gear gives out in the final drive, you will not have any control with the brake on that side. The brakes never were too good on those old combines anyway, at least they weren't much good on the 105. If the shafts are OK, then you have bad brakes and something else in the power train is bad too. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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