1) Those 7 pin RV plugs indeed have a terminal to be used as an AUXILIARY (lights, camper battery etc) power source, if its wired to the trucks battery and camper battery, it obviously charges up the camper battery when driving.
2) If I were running a wire from the truck to the camper Id use at least 10 gauge stranded copper and use a 30 amp fuze or circuit breaker right at your choice of the hot battery voltage source on the truck to protect that 10 gauge feeder wiring. If you use bigger wire, bigger fuzes/breaker
3) HOWEVER you dont want to discharge the trucks batetry when youre using 12 volts in the camper so you can EITHER a) Unplug it or b) Use a solid state dual battery isolator which allows the truck battery/alternator to charge the camper battery but NOT allow reverse discharge current, or c) Do like my friend Wilson suggests and use a 100% duty cycle 12 volt solenoid so the batetries are ONLY connected when the truck is running.
Protecting the feed wire circuit with a fuze or circuit breaker is my best engineering and safety advice, I use breakers which automatically re set versus me havign to install a new fuze.
BE SURE AND RUN A GOOD SOLID DEDICATED GROUND. When I run those circuits back, in addition to the fuzed hot wire, I also run a 10 gauge ground wire and connect it from battery - to battery - via the plug, of course, which is also bonded to a good solid (I use stainless steel bolts with star washers and maybe even weld to a frame member) frame ground NOW THATS A CIRCUIT
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