Few things come to mind; when digging the hole for one, over dig, make room for stone and say some filter fabric, hopefully the ground is well drained if you use it a lot. Also make sure all your connections are tight, if using poly ( black plastic ) use extra clamps on barbed fittings, hose clamps seem to strip easier now then they did in the past. Check for leaks. One tool that is handy to have set up for clamps is a 5/16" socket on a ratchet, or the appropriate size for the clamp if used. Screwdrivers don't do it for me on clamps.
Get a quality hydrant with a parts diagram, there is a chance you may have to work on one of these at some point, I just replaced 2 that were less than 10 years old. Good to know you can get parts for them. Also, check the casting of the hydrant, make sure it has a big enough "nub" near the spigot to hold a bucket handle, some castings leave just a little one, barely enough.
I'm referring to "in ground type hydrant", hopefully you are not referring to a wall hydrant or something else.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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