No real tricks, but it's probably a lot like moving old John Deere wheels. I don't know how these hubs are made but any system that keeps the pressure between the wheel and the hub should work. So your idea may be fine. Put the pressure on and keep tightening every day or so. Penetrants may help, but don't do much good in my opinion. A little heat on the outer component will expand it and loosen things. You don't want it red hot, just enough to cause it to expand. Rapping on the exposed parts with a 3# hammer while turning the wheel to evenly spread the blows will help jar things loose. Time is your buddy, just keep at it and keep the pressure on. It'll probably sound like a rifle shot when it does break loose if it's really tight. Good luck with it. Even if you do end up breaking something it will be external, not inside the tractor and therefore easier to replace.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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