I'm a retired building inspector. The ground must slope away from your house, all the way around. Make sure you have 6" or 8" or more of fall in the first 8' to 10' away from the entire house. You must get all water away from the foundation. Get downspouts to drain completely away from the house. If some adjacent grade slopes down towards the house, get that fixed; no water should be allowed to drain TOWARDS the house. If you don't do all that, all the rest of your efforts may not work. And measure it, don't just walk around and eye-ball it; ground will settle over the years, and what was OK a few years ago not may drain properly now. Vents need to be at EVERY corner of the crawl space, to get the corners vented; that way the rest of the crawl space gets vented. Put 4 mil or 6 mil plastic vapor barrier down, securely, overlap all joints by a foot or more,a nd secure it down tight. You might put gravel on it to hold it down. If you have plastic down, you need 1 square foot of vent space or more, for about every 1000 sq. ft. of space. might need more. (And measure the actual vent space open area; don't just guess at it. )(They're not as big as you think.) Without proper plastic vapor barrier, you need 10X the amount of vent area. Yep, ten times. Keep the vents open all year long, unless in winter you want to close them off. And yep, you'll still get moisture inside, but it should be alot less.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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