I guess everyone has a opinion, but here goes for me. I have been doing metal roofs since 1964, and have yet to have one come loose.
We use 2 x 4s, 2 ft on center starting at the bottom, and the last run can be up to thirty inches. We always use 2 x 6 on top and bottom.. The bottom has to have a 2 x 6 if you ever plan on usung over the roof hangers for eve spouts. Otherwise the top hole on the hanger never gets into a board.
One inch limber is usualy made for starting fires, and cost more than a two inch lumber. Placing the lumber just under the lap on any shingle helps keep it from tipping up, and then your tin will wrinkle if the screws are tightened on the metal because the lumber does not lay flat on the roof.
We have never tried to hit the rafters, two guys tack each end with a pasload nailer, and another third man comes and nails them down. The ground crew must hury to keep lumber tipped up fast enough. You are limited to usualy three and a half inches with a nail gun. The time spent trying to hit a rafter is usualy a problem anyway.
We screw 2 inch screws on the lap, and then one just behind the lap for a saftey screw. The bottom gets a screw on every rib, and one on each side of the rib because that is where the wind usualy plays with steel.
If a man has a problem hitting a 4 inch board, he best get off the roof. We always use a pasload nail gun (finish nailer) without any nails to punch holes in the tin, unless we are using Menards steel, or any other cheap steel with a low tencil strength.
Steel nowdays is poor quality, and you must walk on the two by fours, otherwise you can ding up the panels of steel. If it is a low pitch roof, or real long sheets, use the rope calk on the side lap. The reason is because any time it rains hard enough to make the water run off 1/2 inch deep, it will run sideways through your side lap.
We at one time used calk for this, but found out that some calk is corrosive to the metal.
As said, everyone has a opinion, but if you choose a panel that the top side lap.........stops as it heads towards the roof...NOT towards the roof, then a little bit sideways......this is good. Otherwise you can look into the seams. Ever notice the seams in some roofs...standing out for attention? If the lap is towards the roof, you can not see it. On a new building, this is not so important, because the surface is pretty even, and straight.
Most ridge cap is 14 inch, and we have yet to find a perfect closure strip, usualy they get brittle, and the wind moves them around a bit after several years.
Place one side of the roof on, then install the ridge cap, never try to straddle the roof with both sides having slippery steel on it.
Yes the wind will blow the second you prepare to start roofing.......just a fact of life.
We have been lucky, but I have tried to fix others problems with a leaky roof. Most often it is a human error, and 90% of the time it is because the screw was not shot in perfectly straight.
Placing steel roofing on a building usualy impresses the customer because it goes on fast with a experianced crew. So go slow, otherwise your neighbors, and friends will want you to help them on week ends.....you know! It will be fun to do it on the weekends for your friends.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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