I have nothing but slab weights on the farm. They're not fun. You'll find out quick why suitcase weights are better and bring more money at sales. BUT they're weight and they're here, so I'm gonna use them.
Jim's right that you need a special bolt that has a hex head in the middle and threads out each end BUT they're waaaay overpriced from Deere. You can get them aftermarket for 30 bucks for the pair from a place in Missouri. They sell them on Ebay. Otherwise, if you're not looking for "original", you can just use a pair of standard grade 5 or 8 bolts. The special bolts were only used to make mounting the starters easier.
I do recommend buying the carriage bolts that are used to mount the slabs from Deere. From a hardware store, the bolts are usually Grade 2. Deere has them in Grade 5. If you're only mounting one or two slabs for show, the cheap grade 2s are fine. But if you're gonna mount the full 8 slabs, you're gonna need heavier bolts. As I recall, bolts with washers and nuts came to $2.10 each at Deere. $4.20 per weight for hardware isn't outrageous. Wait 'til you buy the proper bolts for mounting wheel weights!
That was the biggest trouble with slab weights. All the weights are really held on by the first two bolts. If they break, they ALL fall off.
So on to mounting -
First, loosely install a pair of carriage bolts in the appropriate hole on the side of the tractor. Slide the slotted end or the starter onto the carriage bolt and lift the starter to align with the holes in the front of the tractor. Install the bolt or nut, depending on which way you went with the mounting hardware. Repeat on the other side.
Now the slabs - Each slab has a pair of holes and a hole with slots at an angle. You're only using two bolts per slab. Slide the carriage bolts into the slots on the starter, one on each side. Install the first weight in such a way that the bolts go into the lower holes. You need to have the weight oriented with the holes to the inside. Install the lock washers and nuts. From this point on, you'll need to flip the weights back and forth to mount them. You'll always slide the carriage bolts down into the last slab - the first ones will go in, the second ones out, third ones in, and so on.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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